photo by ju:femaiz
A good surfer with a smooth style will paint a picture we all admire while a beginner will produce a scribble or blotch following a wipe-out. Sadly, the picture drawn by a surfer is seen only in the minds of observers. The surfer himself retains but a memory of his ride, unlike a snow-skier, who after flowing down a mountain slope, glances back and sees his artistic tracks imbedded in the white smoothness of the snow covered slope. (excerpt from “Hitting the Lip: Surfing in South Africa” by Cornel Barnett. 1974)
Cheers for posting the image – how’d you discover it?