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Animals of the Australia Zoo

Published at August 23, 2007 in general. Closed

The Australia Zoo is the home of the Crocodile Hunter Steve Irwin. As everyone knows Steve had a tragic accident, but through the zoo, it’s efforts, his family and friends, his legend and spirit lives on. I visited the Australia Zoo which is located in Queensland about 40min away from Noosa Heads. The zoo sends a free shuttle bus (actually a double decker coach bus) to pick up visitors to the zoo — an excellent deal. This was also my first day of scattered showers in over 30 days, and it was welcome because it made the day at the zoo more enjoyable. The animals were active and the weather was pleasant.

The Australia Zoo is famous for it’s crocodiles and their crocodile shows. They were also famous for Harriot the tortoise, but sadly she passed away last year. The idea behind the Australia Zoo is to let the visitors get up close and personal with the animals. If they can develop a bond with the animal they will be more involved in protecting them. To this end there are lots of opportunities to touch, feed and meet the animals at the zoo. You can fee the elephants, hold the Kolas and hang with the wombats that are walked around the park on leashes.

The centre piece of the zoo is their Crocoseum, a clear water stadium seating area where they put on a snake, bird and crocodile show. They demonstrate behaviours of the crocodile and inform the public on safety. They show how powerful the crocodile is by having it strike at food above the water, and how territorial they are. At one point the demonstrator sits on the ground in front of the crocodile to show that out of the water crocodile are very slow. They are fastest in the water and when striking at things on the waters edge.

This day, Sunday July 22, 2007, turned out to be a pretty big day at the zoo, as a special announcement was being made. When watching the tortoise handler talk about the tortoise he mentioned that we should all make sure to catch the 11am crocodile show because Terri Irwin was going to be there. Not wanting to miss out I made my way to the Crocoseum. As we waited for the show to begin a number of TV news crews made their way in and set up cameras. Sure enough in the middle of the show Terri Irwin came out with the The Minister for the Environment and Water Resources, Malcolm Turnbull, and Steve’s farther Bob Irwin, to announce that the Australian Government would provide more than $6 million to purchase of a wildlife reserve in north Queensland. This One hundred and thirty-five hectare area, north-east of Weipa, will be established as the Steve Irwin Wildlife Reserve. This is a substantial investment by the national government towards the research and protection of Australian wildlife. It was somewhat humbling to be in the arena for the announcement — to think about all the things this one man did for Australia, how he worked to educate and inspire countless people, his undeniable passion, and the way people work everyday to continue his work and honour his memory.

Overall the Australia Zoo is a fun and info-taining place to visit. I reckon they have the happiest animals I have ever met at a zoo, though I do concede I have no baseline to measure animal happiness. They were moving and interacting with each other, and no zoo personal were mortally wounded during my visit. I say that’s a good scale. To view the entire set of photos visit flickr.

A day in Noosa Heads

Published at August 17, 2007 in general. Closed

Noosa Heads is a seaside town popular with backpackers and Brisbane vacationers alike. Beach, surf, National Parks and heaps of shopping, it’s a nice little spot. I pulled into town about 10am, checked into my hostel (another YHA, but this one was top class and right in town; more of a summer beach house really) and made for the beach in search of surf. Noosa is supposed to have some nice breaks, but they only work in very specific conditions. sadly today was not the day. Deciding to head to the Australia Zoo the following day I packed a bag with water and did a walk along the ocean through the Noosa National Park to Hell’s Gate. It was amazing to learn that at one point they wanted to pave over this headland for housing and a road. Thank goodness they didn’t.

It is along this walk you can see the point breaks that were not going off. Some folks were out on long boards catching the barely 1ft swell into shore. Still looked fun, but not fun enough to warrant hiring a board. Noosa is a very trendy spot, and I think I had one of the best long black coffees of my time in Australia here. It still doesn’t compare with my brewed Tim Horton’s coffee supply, but it was a nice change from the instant garbage I was drinking while on tours. A fantastic ‘the lot’ hamburger capped off the night in preparation for my visit to the late Steve Irwin’s Zoo in the morning. View the entire set of photos at flickr.

Down and out on Fraser Island

Published at August 16, 2007 in general. 2 Comments

Fraser Island, known as K’gari to the aboriginal people, is the largest sand island in the world and is a World Heritage Area that is part of the Great Sandy National Park. It is literally made completely of sand (and a few rock formations). Think about that for a minute, because to me it doesn’t make sense. The island supports lush forests, animals, plants, fresh water lakes and abundant sea life. The most common way to experience Fraser Island is by booking a 3 day/2 night self-drive 4WD tour. These tours leave from Harvey Bay or Rainbow Beach. Rainbow Beach is considered the nicer place to start from, as it is closer to Fraser island and a more laid back town. It all comes down to the group dynamic and the reputation of the company. I’ve heard horror stories about cars breaking and bonds being kept, and I’ve also heard ‘best time of my life’ claims. It all depends on the day.

I decided to tour Fraser Island from Rainbow Beach through the hostel Dingo’s. They provide the standard Toyota Landcruiser trooper style, where you sit 8 in the back and 3 across the front. What I liked about Dingo’s was that they provided you with all your food and a list of what to eat when. We never were short on food, and actually had leftovers. When we met our truck for the trip I was a little worried. She looked old and rusty, but they wouldn’t give us a vehicle that would breakdown, would they? We loaded up, plugged in the iPod and headed for the barge, with the other 5 groups from our hostel, that would take us to the island. You can see the island from the Rainbow Beach shore, and the barge ride is all of about 8min.

With the 4WD engaged I drove onto the beach to board the barge, while vehicles around me got bogged for the first time on the trip. When we reached the island we had to take a high tide road to reach a section of the beach where we could safely drive. That is the thing about driving on the beach, you have to be mindful of the tide. We were only allowed to drive until about 2h before high tide, and then had to wait until 2h after high tide before we could go again.

I barreled out of the high tide track onto the beach, dropped the hammer and cruised along following a number of other groups along the beach. Everything was great, the weather was warm, the sand was semi-firm and the tide was a safe height. As the revs got high I decided to drop into 4th gear. As I dropped the hammer and released the clutch the car rev’d higher. I must have gone to 2nd I thought, and shifted back to 3rd. No difference. We began to slow down. I shifted to 2nd with no avail. As we rolled to a stop I tried a few things and was unable to get the truck moving. The gear shift felt really loose so I thought I’d broke the cable, but when we got out and looked under the truck we saw the cable was still there. Luckily a girl in our group had a Telstra mobile with CDMA support, as CDMA is the only technology that works on the island, and we were able to call the company. They sent a mechanic (45min later) who took one look at the vehicle and told us the clutch was dead and we’d need a new truck. 2h later a new truck was delivered to us and we were under way. I tell it like it was no big deal, but we were all pretty upset, but happy we had stopped at a nice place on the beach. It was deemed that the clutch wore out from natural causes and we were not held accountable.

Fraser Island has a number of highlights. On the first day we did a nice walk into Lake Wabby, a green fresh water lake situated at the base of a sand dune. That night we camped at Cornwells just behind the dunes that line the open ocean. On day two we drove along Seventy Five Mile beach to the tip of Fraser Island and Indian Head. As the tide was pushing in we spent 5h lounging on the beach, watching the Humpback whales jump and slap their tails, as well as climbed to the top of the point and watched dolphins frolic in the ocean. And Dingos. A few came cruising down the beach. We pushed back down the beach making a stop at the wreck of the Maheno.

The Maheno was a high class cruise ship built in the 1920s that sailed between Australia and New Zealand, and was also used as a hospital ship to bring the wounded back to Australia from the United Kingdom during the first world war. On July 8th 1935, while being towed to Japan to be used as scrap metal, a cyclone roared and broke the tether and washing the ship onto Cathedral Beach on Fraser Island. Here it has sat to rust, and was used as target practice during the second world war.

On day two we camped at One Tree Rocks so that we would be in good position to make it into Lake Mackenzie in the morning. Lake Mackenzie is the ‘must see’ lake on Fraser Island. The water is clear and the sand is white. The 4WD track into the lake is an extremely fun track that I was lucky enough to drive. We were able to spend 2h at the lake before turning around to make our way back to the barge and Rainbow Beach.

Fraser Island is definitely a ‘must do’ activity while in Australia. I would recommend paying a little extra to do the trip with a smaller group of friends, and to get a nicer vehicle. There are many sights on the island that I did not see — which is par for the course in Australia. View the entire set of photos at flickr.

The Mighty Condor

Published at August 14, 2007 in general. Closed

When you ask people what are ‘must do’ activities in Australia sailing the Whitsundays is typically on that list. And for good reason. The Whitsundays, best known for Whitehaven Beach, are an island group off the east coast of Queensland accessed via the town Airlie Beach. The best way to see these islands, and experience this piece of paradise, is to hire a sail boat and set out — the second best option being to book aboard a sailing adventure and take to the high seas. I booked aboard the Condor through the company Oz Adventure Sailing. I was a little upset to learn that I could have saved heaps of money by booking a package deal (Sailing the Whitsundays packaged with a self-drive tour of Fraser Island) through any number of travel agents. I always assumed that doing it yourself would yield the best price, but in this case I was wrong.

We departed from the marina, 3 crew and 25 passengers, for a 2 day/2 night cruise aboard our seasoned vessel Condor. Condor is perhaps the most famous Maxi yacht in history, as it is the only yacht that has won every major ocean race in the world — twice. These races include such highlights as: the Sydney to Hobart, Fastnet, Bermuda Cup, World Maxi Championship, Porto Cervo Maxi Series and Antigua Race Week. Those credentials are what drew me to this boat. You can see her racing lines beneath the renovated hold, as this is not a boat for the pampered. Most of the passengers slept in bunks in one large room in the hold of the boat, with the galley situated at the bow and two double rooms at the stern. Condor is a large boat at 23.6m, and with a +3m keel weighted to the hilts, she stays fairly level in big winds.

I lucked out for sun and wind while sailing the islands, as we had both in large quantities for the duration of the trip. The wind made things a bit cool, but I’d sacrifice a little warmth for the opportunity to batten down the hatches, jump on the grinders, and hoist the main sail. On our first day we sailed out to a protected spot where we dropped anchor and headed into the water for a snorkel session. The sights rivaled what I saw on the Great Barrier Reef, with the added bonus of not being bombarded with the sound of breathing through a regulator. Snorkeling can be a very peaceful activity. With the sun beginning to set we steamed to a passage that provided cover from the wind for the night. A fantastic meal was served, and everyone took in the amazing views provided by the stars. I had no problems sleeping on the boat, which I accredit to my packing of ear-plugs. With 20 people, even in a big room, the ear lugs are life savers.

On day two we awoke to hot beverages and breaky. After the meal we steamed headlong into the wind towards Whitehaven Beach. It would have taken us a good 5h to tack and jib to the beach, hence the use of the motor. Whitehaven Beach tends to live up to the name it has carved for itself. I have never seen water so blue or sand so white. They say the sand is essentially pure silica, and numerous digital cameras are ruined everyday. We lounged on the beach for most of the morning before making our way back to the boat for lunch and our afternoon snorkeling spot. After another great snorkel we raised the sails and headed north in preparation for our jib east towards our night anchorage. Another calm night and twinkling stars was the reward. The weather was cool at night, in the low teens, and I can only imagine how this experience may have been improved in the summer months when you are able to sleep on the deck of the boat.

Awaking on the final day we pulled up anchor and sailed our way back to port and our slip in the marina. Sailing the Whitsundays is definitely an activity and experience that warrants its place on the ‘things to do in Australia’ lists. View the complete set of images at flickr.

Magnetic Island

Published at August 10, 2007 in general. Closed

Magnetic Island, so named by James Cook when he was discovering Australia, may not actually be magnetic, but it does have an infectious pull on all those visiting nearby mainland Townsville. A short 25min ferry ride lands you on this island get away of snorkeling, hiking, and general relaxing.

With a day and night to spend on Maggie, as it is affectionately called, I boarded the ferry and was checking into the Bungalow Bay YHA in Horseshoe Bay by 10am (for an affordable $21 a night) ready to explore the island. Bungalow Bay has an attached Koala reserve and nature park that you can pay to visit, but I elected to hike off around the island to see what I could see. I headed towards the beach then turned east to take a trail that would lead me by Balding Bay, and Radical Bay. Both were lovely little bays with secluded beaches and blue water.

From Radical Bay I followed the road back towards the centre of the island and ultimately Horseshoe Bay. By taking the road I would be able to hike up to the fort, which is said to be one of the best hikes on the island. On my way to the The Forts I passed a 700m trail that lead to Searchlight Station, a location used during the war to keep an eye on the sea. As I walked along this path I stumbled upon a single Koala resting in a tree. He had chosen a very short tree, and I could have reached out and grabbed him. he looked at me, I looked at him. He sized up me, I sized up him. After a good staring contest, and a few photos, I carried on my way.

The hike up to The Forts yielded a great view of the ocean, as well as a glimpse at the use of the island during the war. Aside from a few building and gun turret foundations, and a maintained but small fort, the hike is the draw.

My night at the hostel, after taking in yet another beautiful sunset, was spent talking with fellow travelers and participating in a rousing game of Coconut Bowling, which as the name implies, involves bowling an over-sized and lopsided coconut towards a bundle of pins. Suffice to say I was beaten in points by a number of children and teenagers, and left to walk away empty handed. C’est la vie.

Next stop, Airlie Beach and the Whitsundays for a sail. View the entire Magnetic Island set at flickr.

Under the Sea: The Great Barrier Reef

Published at August 6, 2007 in general. 1 Comment

It can be safely assumed that the Great Barrier Reef falls on most every Seven Wonders of the Natural World list, and for good reason. It is the world’s largest coral reef system, composed of roughly 3,000 individual reefs and 900 islands stretching for 2,600 kilometres over an area of approximately 344,400 square kilometres. The Great Barrier Reef can be seen from outer space and is the world’s biggest single structure made by living organisms. The numbers of fish, birds, snakes, whales, turtles, and coral that call this place home are also staggeringly large. It is truly one of the Worlds greatest places, and it is with this thought process that I embarked to SCUBA dive the Great Barrier Reef.

I signed up for a 2 day/1 night dive trip (5 day dives, 1 night dive) with Reef Encounters, one of the many live aboard dive operators on the reef. I highly recommend this operation. Their equipment is decent, their boat is fabulous, and the staff were amazing. It felt like a group of friends diving instead of a stuffy purchased trip. They recently renovated the interior of the boat and it is lovely. Lots of soft couches, wood finishes, and great food. The rooms are more than adequate as well. I had a 3 share room, but as there were only 12 guests on board I had it to my self.

The benefit of doing a multi-day live aboard trip is that you can experience a number of different reefs along the Great Barrier Reef. Unfortunately, due to the high winds, the ocean had a fair bit of chop to it and we were unable to visit a different reef for fear that we wouldn’t be able to dive it. The reef we were on blocked the wind, where the other reefs were openly exposed. Luckily the reef we were on, Hastings Reef, had a number of different parts that provided a different experience for each of my 6 dives. On my first dive we worked our way left along the reef wall to a location known as the Coral Garden, so named for obvious reasons. On the second dive we worked our way right along the reef to no particular destination. The third dive was a night dive. Equipped with torches (read: flashlights) we entered the water with the intention of working our way left down the wall again in search of night life. The ocean is a completely different place at night, just like a forest on land. The first half of the dive went well with a spotting of a shark just off the reef wall, but sort of fell apart in the second half when a group of people got disoriented and kept circling a pinnacle. This confused everyone else who assumed other groups knew best. Navigating on the reef is fairly simple: keep the reef on X shoulder on the way out from the boat, and on the opposite shoulder on the way back to the boat. As it was a moonless night we could see the green glow of the boat shining through the water.

Dive four was a morning dive, and we were in the water just as the sun broke the horizon. For this dive we did a surface swim out to a pinnacle away from the reef that goes down to 18m on one side and 6 or 7 m on the other. The dive was to just circle the pinnacle starting at your maximum depth and rising with every lap of the structure. This was one of the best dives as in the morning the sleeping fish awake and start about their daily lives. Dive five was a one way boat dive. They dropped us off at the far end of the reef and we worked our way back to the boat keeping the reef on our left shoulder. I took the opportunity to go back into the Coral Garden on this dive and was rewarded with a view of another shark. On dive six we worked our way left along the reef again by-passing the Coral Garden and going into the Fish Bowl. As the name implies there were heaps of fish in this bowl as well as a few giant clams.

I had a great time diving the Great Barrier Reef but must add that I was a bit upset that I was only able to dive one reef. Word has it Hastings Reef is one of the less spectacular reefs. A reef called Normans Reef is supposed to have the best night diving in the area. Reef Encounters also runs a day trip on a boat called Compass, and they use this boat to taxi people to and from the main Reef Encounters boat. An so I boarded the Compass for the trip back to Cairns. The Compass stops at two reefs for snorkeling and diving, Hastings Reef and Breaking Patches. As we steamed our way to Breaking Patches I had to make the decision to either do a free snorkel or fork out $30 for an extra dive. The staff assured me I’d see some Sea Turtles, and that this reef would be a completely different experience than Hastings. With those words I signed up and was in the water with a French fellow who was also returning from Reef Encounters. It was funny because he spoke essentially no English (his girlfriend was interpreting for him) and I speak essentially no French. Luckily underwater only hand signals can be used. We had a wonderful 45min dive and met three Green Sea Turtles. We were able to pet them, feed them and swim with them. It was amazing.

On my return to Cairns and checking into my new hostel, the YHA (I was at Gilligan’s before but found it an impersonal resort behemoth), I met a group of guys who were chilling by the pool and playing pool. One of the people just got back from a 5 day dive training course with Pro Dive, and his stories of sea life made me a little sad. He saw Minke Whales, dozens of sharks, and amazing coral. At the end of the day I am very happy with my trip and would go back in a second because when it comes to sea life it is the luck of the draw. I could just as easily seen what this individual saw and he could have struck out. I have 11 dives under my belt for a total of 6h 19min underwater. I look forward to experiencing some of the dive locations in Ontario, as I have a friend who dives and says there are lots of great ones. It will be a different experience compared to the Great Barrier Reef of course.

(You can view the entire Great Barrier Reef set of photos at flickr.)

Hi, I’m in Nhulunbuy

Published at August 3, 2007 in general. Closed

My flight from Darwin to Cairns made a short stop in Nhulunbuy (also known as Gove), a mining and fishing town in Arnhem Land created on the Gove Peninsula in the Northern Territory of Australia when a bauxite mine and deep water port were established nearby in the late 1960s. The Gove Airport is located on the site of the former RAAF Airfield Gove. This World War II airbase was built in 1943 and named for Pilot Officer William Gove who was killed in action. During the war, the airfield was used by No. 83 Squadron RAAF flying CAC Boomerangs and No. 13 Squadron RAAF flying Lockheed Venturas, with No. 42 Squadron RAAF operating PBY Catalina flying boats out of nearby Drimmie Head. At the height of operations, over 5000 servicemen were stationed at the base. (Thank you wikipedia.)

When I checked in for my flight in Darwin they asked if I would mind giving up my seat and taking a later flight that would take me from Darwin, to Alice Springs, then back up to Cairns. I declined as it arrived in Cairns much to late for my plans.

The airport at Gove is a one runway one building operation. We had to depart the plan which meant another trip through security. I was randomly selected to be searched for bomb making residue — my second time this day. When we got back on the airplane a number of passengers commented that this was the first time they ever had a female pilot, and I must concede I think it was also mine. Next stop, Cairns.

Kakadu National Park

Published at August 2, 2007 in general. Closed

Kakadu National Park is located in the Top End only a few hours drive from Darwin. I booked a 3 day/2 night tour with Wilderness 4WD Adventures who run small group tours of about 9 people plus the tour guide. We set off to explore, spot wildlife, hike and camp in this amazing environment.

Our first stop was Corroboree Billabong to board a boat and look for crocodiles, as well as the diverse bird life around these wetlands. What amazes me about the area around Darwin is that during the wet season (December – March) is essentially flooded. We drove along roads and walked along trails that were submerged by 3 or 4 metres of water just a month ago. You can see debris that has been caught in the tree tops as you walk around. There are two species of crocodile in Australia: the Freshwater Crocodile and the Estuarine (or Saltwater) Crocodile. The former, aka Freshie, is relatively small, only 2 or 3 metres, and are not considered man-eaters. They have small jaws that can seriously harm a person, but are not big enough to eat one. They won’t bother you if you don’t bother them. The Saltwater, aka Saltie, is another story. These crocodiles live in fresh and salt water and are opportunistic predators i.e. they will eat anything. A Saltie male can reach 7 metres in length, and they will attack anything that moves. That’s a big difference in mentality, you could safely swim in water with a Freshie as long as it didn’t feel threatened, while a Saltie will come after you.

As we cruised the billabong we viewed a number of Salties sunning themselves on the banks, as well as a plethora of bird life that call these wetlands home.

After the cruise we drove for a little over an hour into Kakadu and onto a 4WD track, then promptly pulled over to have lunch under a nice tree next to an active wetland. This is the beauty of carrying all your equipment, you can stop whenever and wherever you like. Once we had eaten and cleaned up we piled back into the trooper and headed towards a waterfall for a short hike to the top where we could safely swim. Crocodiles make there way into waterholes during the wet season floods, and are removed once the dry season starts. As they can only get into the water holes during the flood they cannot return. They only remove Salties as the Freshies are considered ‘safe’. They still warn about crocodiles to CTA against law suites. To find out what crocodiles are in the area they fill a Styrofoam ball with meat. When the crocodile tries for the meal it leaves it’s tooth imprint on the ball, and from that Rangers can tell what type of crocodile it is as well as the size. After a pleasant swim at the top and bottom of this waterfall we drive 45min to our camp for the night where we dined on steak before enjoying the didgeridoo, a few drinks, and finally the star filled sky as we crawled into our swags. I have never seen a sky so full of twinkling lights. The Milky Way streaks across the sky in all its glory.

Day two saw us about around 7am for breakfast then on our way to Jim Jim Falls. Jim Jim Falls rises 330m above the plains below. We undertook a 8km round trip hike to the top of the Falls for amazing views of the area, a swim and a snack. We reached the summit a good hour before any other tour group and were able to soak in the majestic views and tranquil surroundings as the water poured over the edge. Crawling to the edge of the waterfall and peering down to the 30m deep plunge pool below was spectacular. When other groups started to arrive at the top we made our way back to the truck for lunch before hiking 900m to the base of the waterfall we just climbed to relax in the sun and take another swim. The water was freezing. Because of the cliff walls, and the 30m depth, the sun does not get an opportunity to warm the ever moving water. Our guide told us that there was a known Freshies that lived in this pool of water, but because of the number of people would be in hiding. She also told us that last year they were swimming across the pool to the waterfall when the Freshie surfaced and joined the group in the swim. They were never in danger, she says, but I’m sure they were still extremely startled (read: scared out of their swimmers).

On departing Jim Jim we made our way to the Yellow River for sunset before setting off for this night campsite. This night we would camp some 20m from the edge of a billabong. We went for a night walk to spot wildlife, but alas saw none. At night you can easily tell what type of crocodile is stalking your campsite by shinning a light over the water. If you see white eyes then they are Freshies, but if you see red eyes they are Salties.

On day 3 we visited a Cultural Centre (that only a few companies visit) where we learned to through spears, play the didgeridoo, make and use a ground oven, and weave with reeds. It was at this point we had the option to go to the rock art that everyone goes to, or venture to another area that would have no other tours, but that our guide didn’t know a whole lot about. We elected this new area as we dislike crowds. Our tour guide used to be married to an Aboriginal man, and thus has a great knowledge of the Aboriginal culture. She was able to explain a number of the pictures we saw painted on the walls. Some of the paintings were 20,000 years old while others were less than 100. It’s amazing to be immersed in such varied culture.

On returning to Darwin I took a much deserved shower and re-packed my bag because at 5am the next day I flew to Cairns via Gove, a one runway one building airport in Arnhem Land. You can view the entire set of photos at flickr.

Up the Middle: Part Three

Published at August 1, 2007 in general. Closed

On July 3rd it was time to leave Daly Waters and complete my journey up the heart of Australia to Darwin. A little after lunch my bus arrived (Adventure Tours) and I joined up with another mix of travelers as we headed off for my first, and there second, stop of the day, Mataranka Thermal Springs. I was unimpressed with these thermal springs. The pool was small and the water was no warmer then a mild bath. I was expected more hot tub temperatures. Instead of getting fully wet I walked around the area and ran across a few Wallabies. After the thermal springs we headed for our camp for the night in Katherine. I was treated to another night of magnificent stars when the moon refused to shine.

We woke early with the intention of getting to Katherine Gorge, known as Nitmiluk by the Jawoyn Aboriginal custodians, by 8am so that we would have 4h to either hike or paddle the gorge. As I joined the tour in Daly Waters I was unable to sign-up for the paddle, which was fine as I was content to hike. The area is actually a collection of gorges. I was able to hike to the first gorge in time to view people from my tour paddling up the water. We were able to swim in the gorge, but again I was reluctant to get wet. After the gorge we went back to camp for lunch, and it was at this point we got horribly behind schedule as the tour guide was hopeless at coordinating people. Did I mention she also got lost on the way to camp the night before? That is unacceptable when companies charge what the do for tours. (On a side note, of all the tour companies I experiences on my journey Adventure Tours was the worst and I would not recommend using them. Your money is better spent elsewhere if you can swing it. Unfortunately at the time of my trip Adventure Tours is the only company running tours between Alice Springs and Darwin. There was another operator but Adventure Tours purchased them. Now back to the trip.)

After lunch we made a quick stop at Edith Falls, known as Leliyn by the Aboriginal people, for a quick swim. This is the Northern Territory which means one must be aware of crocodile activity. Edith Falls is considered a safe swimming spot, and it is for this reason it is so busy. There are not many safe spots in the Northern Territories so people flock to the few there are. The falls were no more then a trickle of water as it is fed by rain water from the wet season. It was nice to get back in the water after 14 days on the road.

With a quick stop at the Adelaide River Inn to get some fuel and meet one of the stars of the Crocodile Dundee films, Charlie the Water Buffalo, we were on the final stretch to Darwin. I was anxious to meet up with Joe and Carolyn (who have been traveling in Australia for almost a year, and were leaving in 6 days for Canada) as well as Devon and Mel (from Wollongong and Uluru fame). Pulling into town at 9pm — 3h behind schedule — did not make me a happy camper. I checked into my hostel, the YHA in Darwin, and was completely disgusted. I do not know how this place received the YHA designation as it was dirty, ridiculously hot and run down. It pales in comparison to all other YHA’s and I would recommend staying anywhere else in town.

8h in Darwin and then I departed on my 3 day Kakadu National Park tour. Things are just starting to get interesting again. View the entire set of photos at flickr.

this year.